Next, fill a 5-gallon utility pail with warm water to which a transplant starter solution such as Miracle-Gro Quick Start or Jump Start has been added. Read and follow the directions on how much will be needed for the amount of water you have in your bucket. Before placing your rose in the 5-gallon bucket of water, take several tiny (less than 1/2 inch) snippets from the roots and also lightly prune the top canes. Soak the plant, getting as much of it as possible under water. Let it soak from 4 to 24 hours before planting.
Prepare a hole of at least 18" x 18", increasing the size if you have extremely heavy clay soil.
Growing roses is fairly simple but like most things, you get out of it what you put into it. If you are planting a lot of roses, it would be prudent to have a soil test done first. Contact your county horticulture agent for information on how to obtain a soil test.
Site Selection
Choosing a sunny location for your rose is one of the most important considerations. To perform their best, roses need a minimum of six hours of sun per day.
As alluded to above, we have mostly heavy clay so you will need to create a soil blend of 1/3 good soil, 1/3 coarse sand or perlite, and 1/3 organic material such as compost or well-rotted manure.
Amending the Soil
Planting
Placement of the Rose Purchased in a Pot
Carefully remove the rose from its original container. If the plant has a well-developed root system, loosen the roots around the outside of the root ball. Positon the plant so that the bud union (knobby part at the base of the plant) is two inches below the soil level. Back-fill the hole with the prepared soil mix you have created. Water thoroughly.
Mounding Soil
If your new rosebush has not leafed out, mound soil over the entire plant until new growth begins to appear. Gradually, over the next week, wash the soil away. (This step can be deleted if your new rosebush is already leafed out.)
To the bottom of the hole the only thing you should be adding is 1/3 cup of super-phosphate or triple-superphosphate and mix this well into the soil.
Buyer Beware
The most expensive rose bushes at a nursery will be those that are in pots. Oher less expensive choices include bagged, boxed or waxed roses. Often there are fewer healthy canes on these roses. Those that are bagged or boxed have had their roots sheared to fit the container. A diminished root system will take longer to become established. The rose will not be able to take up the necessary nutrients to keep the bush in prime condition.
Wisconsin soils vary from heavy clay to mostly sand. Rose thrive in acidic soil with a pH from 6.5 to 6.8.
Hopefully your roses will arrive with moist roots and with directions on how to plant. Follow the directions carefully. In the Milwaukee Rose Society, we have an annual rose sale of bare root roses.
A 5-minute dip in a very weak solution of Clorox bleach/water is suggested to kill any diseases that might be present.
You should now have a well-hydrated rose all set to plant in your garden. Assuming that you have followed the guidelines above, you are now ready to create a "cone-shape" with the soil in the potting hole, taking care to place the plant with the knobby part a good 2 inches under the soil level and spreading the roots around the periphery of the "cone". Then backfill the hole with your soil mixture. Water thoroughly with the starter solution.
Look for roses of quality! Potted roses should have at least three strong canes showing active growth. Each cane should be at least 3/8" or greater in diameter. This is known as a Grade 1 rose.
Carefully inspect the rose bush you are considering. Are the leaves healthy? Do they show signs of insect or disease damage. Are there any gashes on the canes? You want to take home a vibrant rose bush, thereby increasing your changes of success.
Waxed roses have the benefit of not losing moisture in storage or shipping. However, the wax often prevents the new growth from emerging. When the wax melts in the hot sun, it can often affect the cane tissue.
First, make sure you have good pruners. Buy bypass pruners. They will give you the cleanest cut. There are many manufacturers and each make various types of pruners. Settle on a pair that is most comfortable for your hands.
Roses grow best when they have sufficient air circulation. To accomplish this, start by cleaning out the center of the bus by removing the smallest, inward facing canes. A cane with the diameter that approximates that of a pencil is able to support a good bloom.
There are two schools of thought regarding pruning, or deadheading, spent blooms.
The first follows the rule of cutting at a "five leaf" cluster. After the rose has bloomed, follow the stem downward until you reach the first grouping of five leaves emerging from the stem. This is a place where new growth can begin. However, continue down the stem until you reach the first grouping that is outward facing. About ¼ of an inch above that 5-leaflet configuration, is where you should make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle. It is recommended you seal the cut with waterproof glue, a pinch of dirt, or a sealant product to eliminate the potential of cane borers that drill holes into the freshly cut end of the cane and can eventually kill the plant.
The second method has less work up front and lets the bush tell you where to prune. After the bloom is spent, just snap off the "deadhead". In a few weeks you will see new growth emerging from the cane. Look for the strongest new shoot which faces toward the outside of the bush. Make your cut in the same manner as described above. Any other growth below this point facing toward the inside of the bush may be snapped off with your fingers.
To avoid problems, choose varieties that are not prone to problems. Keep your roses healthy from the beginning. Roses, like us, do best when we are healthy. Weaken the bush, and you will have more problems.
If you choose to use chemical sprays to help contain or prevent disease and insect problems, be sure to read and follow the directions for amounts, spray cycles and protection. Remember, these are chemicals.
1.Protect yourself with a good respirator system.
2.Wear protective clothing.
3.Dispose of unused spray appropriately.
4.Learn your level of tolerance for the problem.
5.Alternate spray products. This helps break the infection cycle.
Diseases
Your roses may suffer from disease. Two are common in our area: powdery mildew and blackspot. Some varieties are more susceptible to these diseases than others.
Powdery mildew occurs during our warm days/cool nights. It will appear on new growth at the top of the rose, turning the foliage a powdery gray. The area will begin to wrinkle and distort. Soon the new growth will be unable to support good growth. You can cut off the infected area hoping the weather conditions will change or you can spray with an appropriate fungicide that kills the spores or a suppressant that chokes off the necessary oxygen.
Blackspot is a fungal disease that starts from soil-borne spores and works its way up the plant. If unchecked, the bush will defoliate. Once you see blackspot, [link?] your rose is infected and it may be too late to completely eliminate the problem. It is best to be preventative.
1.Remove all dead or diseased leaves from the soil.
2.Remove the lowest leaves from your roses. This prevents the spores from reaching the plant with infection. 8-10 inches for your largest roses should be sufficient.
3.Water at the soil level and try not to splash up into the bush.
4.Do a fungicide spray early in the season, spraying both the bush and the soil. Work up the soil and mulch and spray again.
Wisconsin gardeners this year are experiencing a new malady (to this area) called "cane dieback." Another term used is "rose canker." In her 7/7/2003 e-mail newsletter entitled, Rose.E.Tips@primaryproducts.com, Ann Hooper of Primary Products (Boston, MA) describes cane dieback so well that it deserves to be published so that even the casual gardener will be able to identify it in their garden. It is a killer in the rose garden if not caught early. The most identifiable characteristic of cane dieback is the top-most 5 to 6 inches of the cane will show brownish, lengthwise-widening "stripes" while the other side of the cane might be nice and green and look absolutely perfect. Even the side growth looks excellent. The second most identifiable characteristic is that when you make a cut into the cane, you will see that the pith is brown, not white. [Pictures will be provided shortly.] The only way to control this disease is to remove the diseased canes immediately, making cuts down to where the pith is white. Very importantly, not only does the garden need to be meticulous, your pruners need to be sterile in order to avoid further spread of the diseased spores. Each and every cut will require you to dip the blades of your pruners into a container of rubbing alcohol. In fact it is a good idea to dab a drop or two directly onto the pith of the cane after the cut has been made. Unfortunately, plan to spend almost triple your time deadheading now because this process is very time-consuming but necessary.
Pests
Common pests in our area are aphids, thrip, spider mites, and now, Japanese beetles. Each is dependent upon particular weather conditions and compromise the health and beauty of your roses. Again, learn your tolerance level for each of these pests. You may be comfortable squishing, knocking off, or capturing these bugs. You may want to bring in chemical sprays. Or perhaps you will be satisfied with introducing beneficial predators. Learn what works best for you.
Aphids appear on the new growth of roses. [link] They suck out the juices and sap. Blooms will be smaller. A major infestation will truly affect your roses. Ladybugs and praying mantis will help control aphids.
Thrip are microscopic, wind-borne insects that burrow into the very center of the rose and cause small brown blemishes on the petals of white and pastel-colored blooms. They generally appear in mid June in this area and, fortunately, these cyclical insects generally disappear by August.
Spider mites appear at the base of the rose plant. [link] They live on the underside of the leaves so are not always noticeable at first. A strong spray of water on the underside of the leaves will help dislodge the spider mites and lessen the problem. However, you will need to keep repeating this process.
Japanese beetlesare an increasing problem in our area, first appearing about five years ago. Since then, the numbers are increasing at an alarming rate. They make their appearance the first week after the fourth of July in area gardens and stick around until the first frost. Japanese beetles are large and easy to see. They actually are not an ugly insect but when you see first-hand the damage they inflict, you will change your mind about their appearance. Oftentimes, four and even up to 8 beetles will be found on a single bloom where they will devour the entire rose and sometimes even a few leaves. Japanese beetles are most commonly found on pastel, fragrant roses but have been seen even in red roses that have absolutely no fragrance. Those in our society who have had to deal with these pests have tried various methods to eradicate them. There are some who have tried milky spore with a little success. There are some new products that are supposed to be promising but to date, none have been able to rid the beetles completely with the products. Japanese beetles are slow moving, flying insects that are actually fairly easy to catch. The best way to do this is to knock the beetles into a jar of soapy water; this kills them almost immediately. Some may want to squish the beetles to kill them but do not do this because the dead insect releases a hormone that will attract even more beetles to your garden.
Each winter in our area is different. What works for winter protection one year may not work the next.
Winter protection begins with proper selection, proper planting and healthy bushes. A weak bush will not have the proper reserves to take it through our cold winters.
Roses are woody perennials. They need to go dormant in our climate. Don't protect too early. Let the plant "cool off" naturally. Early frosts will not harm the bushes. They signal the plant to begin going dormant. This is the time for you to prepare your method of winter protection.
Rose cones are a very common sight here in Milwaukee; however, often they are incorrectly used. Cones should have a solid top to prevent snow and ice from melting unto the plant. Four or five quarter-sized holes should be punched on the sides near the top of the cone to allow for air circulation. Keep a careful eye on the daytime temperatures. Our January thaws and early spring "teases" necessitate the removal of the cones during the day to prevent heat build-up. Be sure to replace the cones before evening.
Soil can be mounded on the rose to a depth of 10-12 inches, or a few shovelsful for a miniature. Come spring, slowly wash away the soil as the daytime temperatures rise.
For semi-hardy varieties, a layer of oak leaves will do very nicely. Other types of leaves tend to mat during the winter causing problems for the rose.
The most dangerous time for roses is the early spring with our cold winds that will desiccate a rose cane within hours. Use an anti-dessicant in fall and again in spring. Don't rush your uncovering.
The best winter protection is to pick varieties that are hardy to this area. It saves you time, labor and heartaches. If you like those tender roses that need protection, you may want to consider them garden annuals!
Slightly greater effort is involved in this method but one that will reap rewards - Some of our members have been using this method for years without losing a single rose over the winter.
